Malt. That simple word elicits so much meaning in the brewing world. Malted grains form the backbone of beer, providing the sugars that yeast will ferment into alcohol and CO2. Yet few appreciate the fascinating history and gradual evolution of malting over thousands of years. This article will take you on a journey through time, chronicling how malting evolved from its earliest beginnings to the sophisticated industry we know today.
The origins of malt
Humans first started settling down and growing cereal crops like barley and wheat around 10,000 BC during the Neolithic Revolution, the birth of agriculture. However, evidence suggests our ancestors may have begun malting grains even earlier. Archaeological findings from the Natufian culture in the Levant region (the current Middle East) date back over 13,000 years and show the first signs of intentional sprouting and heating of grain.
Why go through this extra effort? Sprouting grains trigger enzyme activity that starts breaking down starch into fermentable sugars. Heating stops this process, drying the grain and preserving the sugars. Together, malting helped unlock the nutritional potential of cereal crops for our ancestors. The resulting sweet malt could be eaten directly or used to brew primitive beers and wines.
Early malting methods
The malting process used by our ancestors was rudimentary but effective. Grain kernels were moistened in woven baskets to start germination, then spread on flat surfaces like rock slabs or woven mats. Workers would turn and aerate the grain bed periodically to control temperature and prevent mould growth. Once sprouted sufficiently, the malt was sun-dried or heated over fires to halt the germination.
This traditional malting process remained largely unchanged for thousands of years. However, the process was very labour-intensive. Malting relied on manual turning of the grain and was restricted by available space. Production was limited and malt was an expensive commodity. Most malts that were dried by direct heating were either partially scorched or had a smoky flavour due to this drying process.
The industrial revolution transforms malting
In 1818, Daniel Wheeler patented the method of indirect kilning, where hot air flowed around the grain to dry it evenly. This produced a lighter-coloured malt without a smoky flavour, preferred by the booming English brewing industry.
It launched the divergence between traditional floor-malted ale malts and higher-volume industrial lager malts. Around the same time, the development of large breweries led to the industrialisation of malting and an increase in the size of production units.
Pneumatic malting was developed and reached commercial success in the late 1800s. Two Belgian malting engineers; Galland and Saladin are considered to be the fathers of the modern malting equipment. Galland introduced the first aerated rectangular boxes in 1873 and Saladin introduced turning machines in 1880s. Saladin boxes are still used today, with the main difference being the transfer to stainless steel construction, and since the 1980’s the acceptance of circular vessels.
From ancient times through the early 20th century, most breweries operated their own on-site malthouse to supply their needs rather than purchasing malt from commercial maltsters. The brewer would malt just enough grain for each batch of beer, with the malting process integrated right into the brewery work flow. This on-site malting provided freshly malted grains but was limited in scale. During the 20th century, third-party commercial malthouses began building bigger and more automated malthouses in order to reduce costs through economies of scale.
The craft maltresurgence
While efficient, large-scale malting factories focus mostly on producing commodity base malt for major breweries. In recent decades, the craft beer revolution has stoked renewed interest in small-scale artisanal malting.
The Swaen is one of these craft maltsters, that produce base malts focused on flavour, and specialty malts like caramel and roasted malts using drum roasters. It completes the farm-to-pint philosophy of fresh and local craft beer.
In 2014, the Brewers Association (BA) published a white paper called Malting Barley Characteristics for Craft Brewers, which outlines ideal barley malt attributes from the perspective of all-malt brewers. Broadly speaking, the document makes two main requests. First, all-malt brewers need a lower total enzyme package in their malt; this is expressed in calling for lower total protein, DP (diastatic power), S/T (ratio of soluble protein to total protein), and especially lower free-amino nitrogen (FAN). FAN is critically important for yeast growth and health, but as the saying goes, too much of anything is a bad thing. Adjunct brewers need high FAN malts to deliver nutrients that adjuncts don’t, whereas all-malt brewers don’t have that need. Research shows that too much FAN in finished beer adversely affects flavour and biological stability in the package over time.
Malting Barley Characteristics for Craft Brewers also makes call for more “flavour.” This is important because it signals that flavour matters, and that craft brewers need and expect flavour to be part of the larger conversation about malting barley. Echoing ancient times, malting becomes a true craft again in the hands of The Swaen.
The future of malting
Modern barley breeding continues to focus on agronomic properties like disease resistance, yield improvement and extract potential. However, the resurgent interest in craft malting points towards dual paths forward. As engineering and science push large-scale malting towards ever greater productivity and consistency, the timeless appeal of small-batch artisan malt will continue influencing specialty brewing. The futures of industrial efficiency and craft quality both have roots in the rich history of malting.
There we have it – a journey through time charting the evolution of malting from its ancient origins to the present day. The malting process retains its essential foundations through the ages even as technology and scale have transformed the commercial industry. So whether you favour perfectly engineered base malts or small-batch specialty malts, raise a glass with The Swaen to the rich past and bright future of malting!